|Sunrise over Sitalike, near Katavi National Park|
|"Road" between Sumbawanga and Sitalike|
|How big vehicles going opposite directions pass each other on 1-lane dirt roads|
But Western Tanzania is not something to be only survived. It is not worthy of only surviving. It is worth so much more. So stay away.
The people treat "wazungus" (white people; foreigners) like people, not attractions or worse, dispensers of money, food, candy, pens or paper. You know why? Because we don't come here. I went five days without seeing another non-Tanzanian and a lot of guest house operators couldn't tell me when the last non-Tanzanian had stayed there. So don't give them someone to remember.
Since we don't come here, it's not a show or an attraction or an industry, it's just life in Tanzania. Occasionally very primitive, always incredibly dusty, and region-wide noticeably poor, but full of dignity and enterprise and energy.
|Carrying the day's water home at dawn in Sitalike|
|Madam Luz's bar|
|Waiting for someone willing to pay for a ride in Sitalike|
|Fellow passenger beneath the seat in front of me between Mpanda and Kigoma|
|Collecting drinking water out of Lake Victoria at dawn in Katonga|
|Water taxi in for repairs in Kibirizi|
|Sidewalk CNN in Kigoma|
|Water taxi port and dry dock in Kibirizi|
|Bus station food court in Sumbawanga|
|Katavi National Park|
|Keeping a look out for elephants and poachers in Katavi NP|
If Western Tanzania taught me anything, it is how much tourism has changed (read: ruined) various places around the world because by comparison, Western Tanzania is unchanged.